These are just a few of the things that I love: Latin America, photography, travel, nature, and culture. They all came together for an article I recently did for National Geographic Traveller (UK). The issue is dedicated to South America, and the photos come from Ecuador and Colombia. It was great fun to relive some of my trips to these countries as I looked for images that speak to some of the iconic places to visit and things to do when visiting there. It’s on newsstands now, so if you find yourself in the UK, pick up a copy! For the rest of you, here’s a peek at the layout.
the cost of what is lost (in translation)
When was the last time you thought about language? Being able to communicate with others we encounter is of critical importance on any given day. Language itself, however, is not something many of us consider outside the realms of academics or literature until we are beyond the boundaries of our own tongue. Travelers often have to rely on hand gestures, humility, and faith that messages are understood when in a foreign place. This is something I was recently reminded of at a Vietnamese train station. I was able to find the right train but have no idea what details were lost in the process of seeking directions. The lack of understanding is compounded when you’re not only dealing with a different tongue but also a different alphabet. When visiting a foreign country, learning the requisite “Hello,” “Thank you,” “Please,” and “Where is the toilet?” is very important but will only get you so far. (Though I have seen how stumbling through “Happy New Year” in Vietnamese before Tet is sure to bring a smile to local faces. Small efforts almost always bring great rewards.) Yes, a certain level of misunderstanding is to be expected in travel.
Our world is encapsulated in an intricate web of words that has shaped our history and defines our present existence. One of the grave consequences of the age of globalization is the loss of languages in cultures worldwide. How do people navigate the language differences within a community or home as a modern language becomes the dominant one? It’s not just the ability to have a discussion that dies with this decline. There is also a disconnect from heritage and environment that is at some point irreparable.
While none of us are immune, indigenous peoples run the greatest risk of this loss as they become more connected with roads, devices, and the lure of cities for building a different life for their youth. Thankfully there are people dedicated to the importance of words and who are working to preserve some of these languages and the deeper meanings that are connected to them.
The Yasuní region of Ecuador is a region undergoing rapid change. The Waorani that live there are varied in their level of contact with the outside world. Some are completely isolated from modern culture, living as they have for centuries. On the other side of the spectrum are the villages along the “Via Auca,” an oil road built in the 1950’s that brought with it modern conveniences, medical care, industrialized foods, and eventually, tourism. Between these two extremes, there are communities working on the transition that is sure to come. Last summer I visited three of these villages, Guiyero, Ganketapare, and Timpoka, that lie along a road built in the 1990’s. The way of life in these villages is a hybrid, though mostly traditional one. Spanish is widely spoken but is freely interchanged with the native Wao Tededo. Hunting is done with guns as well as blowguns and spears. Western clothes and cell phones are a reality. Tourism is certainly on its way but has not yet arrived. This is a tremendous time of transition and opportunity for the Waorani people.
I was in this area with Megan Westervelt who has been working with the Waorani since August 2014. With cameras on loan from Ohio University, she has provided these communities with a visual voice. As she teaches them about composition and some basic technical aspects of photography, she also talks of how to tell a story about their lives through images. During my short visit, people from the communities met with us daily to work with the cameras and look at photos. Nods and chatter filled the room as they talked about the different stories they could tell. Our discussions with the group centered around parts of their lives that may seem mundane or normal to them but are unique to their culture. (The challenge of showing “normal” moments in a way that is interesting is one that many a photographer has faced.) The resulting images were soulful and intimate. Megan and these communities compiled the images, and with the support of several groups in Ecuador and a successful Kickstarter campaign, they were showcased in Wao Mimo: Yasuní Bajo el Lente Waorani, an exhibit that traveled to Quito and Coca last fall.
While we were visiting the communities in the Yasuní, I met Marleen Haboud, a professor of linguistics from Pontificia Universidad Católica del Ecuador (PUCE) and director of Oralidad Modernidad. She works with minority groups to help them to preserve and revitalize their native language. The projects she’s involved with are multi-faceted and include mapping changes in language over generations as they evolve from the native tongue, to Quechua, and eventually Spanish. In some homes she has met families where grandparents have no way to communicate with their grandchildren because there are three distinct languages spoken. Verbal understanding lost in three generations…under one roof. It is a tragic byproduct of progress.
Marleen’s work extends beyond words. She works with the stories told in these cultures in an effort to preserve heritage along with language. One facet of the work, Así Dicen Mis Abuelos (So my Grandparents Say), is a collaboration with her filmmaker daughter. I was able to witness the beginning of this process in action. Dozens of Waorani gathered in a room. Elders in the community were asked to come forward and tell a story. As they talked, they inevitably became animated while everyone watched and listened, gathered on the floor and in chairs around them. Marleen and her team filmed the storytelling. As I listened to words I could not understand, my mind pictured stories like these being told in villages for centuries, around campfires or while doing daily tasks. With the plotlines fresh in their minds, the Waorani gathered in groups to illustrate the stories. It is very important for Marleen to know what aspects of the stories look like visually for each tribe she works with. On this particular day, one man’s story was about hunting with a blow gun. Without the drawings to accompany the words, it would be difficult to know exactly what Waorani darts and blowguns look like, a key detail in getting the story right. With the recordings and illustrations in tow, Marleen and her daughter work with representatives from the villages to help with translation. The final products include animated films and books depicting the story in Wao Tededo (in this case) with Spanish subtitles. These resources are given back to the communities and serve as an invaluable tool for educating their children in both the content of the stories and the language. The beauty of this exercise was not just in what was being produced but also in the spirit of community and sharing that grew as people from several generations talked, drew, and laughed together.
I could write multiple posts about the work that both Megan and Marleen are doing in Ecuador. What I witnessed was only a few short days, a small glimpse into labors of passion that no doubt will continue for the span of their lifetimes. They certainly have huge challenges ahead, but I believe their impact is taking root in these villages as young and old take pride in who they are, where they come from, and the importance of keeping some of that heritage alive.
It is clear that the intentions of these two women are not to keep the modern world away from the Waorani. Often when I travel with groups of tourists to indigenous villages, comments arise about how strange it is that the people there have cell phones or TVs. Isn’t it natural that these luxuries would be attractive to them? Dismay that people enjoy modern conveniences because of the quaint or romanticized images we, as travelers from first-world countries, have in our minds about their culture is short-sighted and self-centered. Expecting them to stay as they have been historically is no different than wanting to put them behind glass, on a shelf in a museum, frozen in time. No, the goal in these projects is rather helping the Waorani to recognize their uniqueness, with their language and their ways of life, while their communities welcome the 21st under their own terms.
In the months since my visit to the Yasuní, ideas about language and culture have swirled in my mind. (I hesitate even now, putting words to this since much of it is at best half-baked.) I’ve visited with members from Haida (Haida Gwaii, British Columbia) and Tlingit (Alaska) tribes who are going to great lengths to learn the tongue of their ancestors and carry on the knowledge that has long been known in their culture. Friends who work with Native Americans have told me of the gravity in elders’ voices as they describe all that is lost when words are lost. In one tribe, an elder explained that a tree might be “tree’ in English, but in their native tongue there are numerous words used, each that carries a significant meaning associated with its role in the environment. All of that meaning disappears when “tree” is used instead.
We don’t have to look to another group of people to see the ramifications of this concept. Every year, words are officially added and removed from dictionaries as they become relevant or obscure in modern culture. Last year in the Oxford Junior Dictionary, MP3 player and blog were added while heron and mistletoe were removed. While a children’s dictionary is not an official lexicon, it does speak to where we are headed. Aside from pocket groups, how many in my generation understand the words associated with growing, harvesting, and canning food, darning socks, or sewing, much less how to put them to use? How many in the next generation will know how to read a map or cook without a microwave? Our world is rapidly changing, and as it does, the way in which we relate to each other is morphing too. Are we taking the time to think about what parts of our own culture are worth holding onto in the process of our evolution? Who are the Megan’s and Marleen’s speaking out for all of us?
yasuní
It’s not easy to get to the Yasuní National Park in northeastern Ecuador. Usually it takes ~8 hours to drive from Quito to Pompeya, take a water taxi across the Napo River, and drive the final hour and a half down a mostly unpaved road to the Estación Científica Yasuní. There are times though, like during my recent visit, where this trip takes two days. Three routes link Ecuador’s capital city with one of the world’s most diverse natural treasures. When I was traveling to the Yasuní, two of the three were closed due to landslides, causing our long detour. Just a few days after my arrival there, all three routes would be blocked, leaving air travel as the only way to get from one to the other.
While my trip was long and tiring, it seemed appropriate. Shouldn’t the jungle that is the most biologically diverse place on our planet and the home of several untouched tribes be a challenge to access? Isn’t its remoteness why it is still as rich in resources as it is, for now?
Tourism has been a reality in parts of the Yasuní for years, but that is not the area that I was going to. The road we traveled on was cut through undeveloped forest in the 1990’s. While it’s primarily an active oilfield road (a complicated topic for another day), it also links a small number of Waorani villages and provides access to a few research stations, including where we stayed. The other travelers that I met were an international mix of researchers either working with the Waorani communities or on biological studies in the jungle.
I was traveling with Megan Westervelt, a fellow photographer that I met in 2008 at the beginning of her photographic journey. Since then she has blossomed as a photographer and fallen in love with Ecuadorian culture. Last year she earned a Fulbright Grant to investigate conservation efforts in the Yasuní. As she spent more time in the area her focus shifted toward the people that she met living there. Her current project, and the reason for my visit, involves teaching interested Waorani communities photography so that they can tell their stories, and preserve their heritage, while modernization works its quick magic on their culture right before their eyes. My experience with this project will be featured in an upcoming post. For now, the jungle.
There’s nothing like the sounds of a tropical rainforest. By day the air is filled with insect- and birdsong. Night sweeps in, and a crescendo is reached as the symphony of insects and frogs take center stage. I could have laid in a hammock and soaked up those sounds for days.
Even though I was there to work on a specific project, I was able to make it out into the jungle on a few outings. Early one morning I met a local Waorani guide, Gabo, to hike up to an observation tower to watch the sunrise. The world was dark and quiet as we ascended God-only-knows how many rungs up a metal ladder to the top of the canopy. There we waited, and the jungle, like clockwork, came alive. Gabo named off the bird, sapo and monkey calls as they chimed in. Being an active hunter for his family (with a blowgun for monkeys and a lance for larger animals), Gabo began to call the monkeys, to which they immediately responded. So when he asked if I wanted to go looking for them, of course I said yes. Within minutes we were bushwhacking through the jungle. It didn’t take long for him to come to a tree where nocturnal monkeys were asleep at the top, and which he woke up to make sure I’d seen them. We had to look a little more for the others. Something would cause Gabo to stop, listen, and sometimes make a call, before deciding which direction to walk. Before we made it back to the main road, we had found three different species of monkeys. Our last stop was under a tree where hundreds of squirrel monkeys scurried overhead.
A few days later, a small group of us went out for a day on the Tiputini River. Any visit to this area of Ecuador should be seen from a boat. And there’s no substitute for having the expert eyes of locals on board with you. I still have no idea how Nonge and German saw some of what they spotted during our trip on the river. The biggest surprise was the well-hidden sleeping green anaconda that German spotted as we were speeding upriver. In order to get a good look, we tied our very long and narrow boat to a tree upriver and drifted back. Nonge, in the back, held on to the limb the snake was coiled around. I had lean out of the boat a bit on the opposite side because we were too close for my lens to focus. Needless to say, this was much closer than I’d ever expected to be near one of these large snakes in the wild! Watching it gracefully wrapped around the tree limb naturally birthed questions about where the head was. In response, Nonge began to shake the limb and splash water on the snake to try to give us an answer. As much as I would have loved to have seen the face of that snake, I was relieved that it kept sleeping. The torrential rains that came every day unleashed on us as we made our final stretch back to the research station.
Being that close to one of the world’s longest snakes, hearing stories about researchers being struck by vipers and swarmed by insects while sampling, and seeing an hours-old jaguar print the size of a man’s hand as we walked through the dense forest, were just some of the reminders of how dangerous tropical rainforests can be. Thankfully just like any other wild place, for those willing to venture out into them, the beauty of it all is powerful enough to transform any fear into a deep, raw, and intoxicating respect.
nightlights
At the bookends of the Northern Hemisphere,
Two ships sail through calm waters,
Different voyages exploring two of Earth’s numerous natural treasures.
Two nights, almost exactly a month apart, open with clear starry skies.
Yes, stars do produce a spectacular celestial show on their own,
But on these two nights, they were but a prelude for what was to come.
In the darkness, a light…
Not the moon, nor the wish-inspiring path of a shooting star.
In the north, colliding particles in the atmosphere birth tiny bursts of light
Creating dancing ribbons of green and red over the lights of Ketchikan.
On the Equator, hot molten earth bursts from a volcano,
Its red flow producing a glowing ribbon of its own over the land.
Displays like these don’t last forever.
As clouds roll in, the sun rises, and lava hardens into a cold blackness,
The shows come to a close.
But they live on, painted in their fleeting splendor,
Forever on display in the depths of my memory.
voices from ciénaga
I met many people during my time in Ciénaga that came through the clinic and operating room. There were a few that I spent time with in their homes before and after their experience with the Medical Ministry International team. As the final installment regarding this trip, here are a few of their stories.
Alfredo, 68
Of all the people I encountered in the Ciénaga area, Alfredo’s story was the most heart-wrenching. The father of four, he lost his young wife after complications from their last son’s birth. He sent his daughter to live with his sister in Bogotá and raised his three sons in their modest home. In 2008, one son was murdered at the age of 28. He was a motorcycle taxi driver who made a fatal decision when he picked up a certain customer. When Alfredo showed me the newspaper that detailed his son’s death on the front page, the headlines read, “One man asked him for a ride and paid with a bullet. He did not rob one cent.” Tragedy struck again in 2013, when his youngest son, Erasmo, was with a friend in Alfredo’s back yard. Someone entered the yard and assassinated them both. The target had been Erasmo’s friend; he was killed because he was a witness. This last death, in particular, has left a lasting mark on his father’s life, and has also left Alfredo to fear for his safety in his home. His oldest son lives in nearby Santa Marta, but because he has a large family of his own, Alfredo spends much of his time alone.
Alfredo had come to the clinic needing cataract surgery but fearful of spending money on anything other than a cell phone plan so that he could call out if he was ever in danger. Thankfully, the doctors and staff at the clinic were able to convince him that his safety was also compromised if he could not see. While the surgeries typically cost ~1 month’s wages, there are funds set aside for cases like Alfredo’s so that people who are in need do not go without a surgery because of financial limitations.
The light of his life now is a neighbor down the street, Marisa. She and her husband run a corner store in the neighborhood. They had moved into the area to flee the violence that had crippled her small hometown. Marisa is the mother of six and jokes that Alfredo is her seventh child. He would sweep the floors of her store before it opened each day when he was able, and she brings him meals to his home everyday when he’s not with her family at the store. While they are no substitute for the family he lost, Marisa and her family provide him needed care and support.
Alejandro, 11
A smile was on young Alejandro’s face every time that I met him. He came to the clinic with his mother with a crossed eye (strabismus). An avid student, he likes every subject in school and dreams of becoming a doctor. The surgery caused him to miss school the week that I met him, but he was looking forward to returning the following week, now that the kids there would have no reason to make fun of him.
Lindrys, 31
When Lindrys was 17, a friend had an eye removed because of an infection caused by rat droppings getting in the eye when he was cleaning off a roof. At that point Lindrys vowed to her mother that if she ever lost an eye, she would take her own life. Two weeks later, she and a cousin were in a horrible car accident. Lindrys’s head hit the dashboard, causing extensive damage to the right side of her face….and the loss of her right eye. Fearful about her recent promise, her family opted to keep the eye loss from Lindrys. It was not until she caught a glimpse of a reflection in the doctor’s office several months later that she learned the extent of her injury. When she confronted her mother about knowing the truth, she said that a great peace came over her. Instead of declaring a desire to die, she instead expressed gratitude that she was still alive. This was a powerful moment and a turning point for all of them.
In recent years, Lindrys has had three surgeries to reconstruct her right brow so that she could be fitted with a prosthetic eye. During this time she has been studying hotel management and tourism while raising her 4-year-old daughter. Her daughter’s persistence was a driving force in them seeking the MMI clinic when they did. Even at her young age, she was the target for other children’s ridicule at school, with comments about her mother being pretty from the neck down, but ugly from the neck up.
Lindrys arrived at the clinic in the final days that we were there, and the prosthetic eye inventory had dwindled. The ocularist who fit these eyes was concerned that no match would be found, but after several moments in prayer and synchronistic moments beyond consequence, a perfect match was in fact found. When I met Lindrys in her home, I met a vibrant beautiful young woman who has much to look forward to. She is still in need of more reconstructive surgery and is hopeful that there are other groups like MMI that might be able to help. With her new eye and more socially accepted looks, she talked eagerly about possibilities of holding a job and hoped for opportunities to one day marry. Ultimately she poured out gratitude to God, not for giving her “normal” looks, but for her injury in the first place, since through it, she has experienced deep grace and a transformed outlook on life.
faces of ciénaga: buenavista and nueva venecia
They came because the fishing was good, but the trip to the market, and home, was long in their wooden dugout canoes. One thing led to another…what began as one stilted cabin here or there in which to stay overnight grew into larger buildings to store belongings allowing for longer stays. At some point about 100 years ago it just made sense to the fishermen to build more structures and bring their families. What once was open swamp with good fishing eventually became a good place to call home.
Nueva Venecia and Buenavista (both appropriately named, these translate to “New Venice” and “good view,” respectively) are two small communities in the Cienaga Grande de Santa Marta, about an hour’s boat ride from Pueblo Viejo. Most of the towns’ structures are on stilts. There is no electricity except what is provided by gas generators. Most of these are small portable varieties in homes, with the exception of Nueva Venecia. It is the largest of three communities in the area, and has a generator that supplies limited electricity to much of the town. While each town is self-contained, residents commute to Nueva Venecia for high school and community events. Small plots of land in each town were built up over time by piling up sediment and shell, primarily to serve as well-used soccer fields or gathering spaces.
Napoleon’s family moved to Buenavista over 50 years ago. He says that life in Buenavista is good and peaceful. People move there because they want to live there, and everyone knows everyone else. While they do have representation for regional political activities, there is no police force because there is little crime. It is not cheap to live in these communities. Everything must be transported in, including supplies for daily life and building materials. It is much less expensive to have a home in Ciénaga or Pueblo Viejo, but the quality of life that calls in these towns out-competes any monetary gain from living the larger towns.
Living in these towns is not without its challenges. Nearby, the Magdalena River, Colombia’s largest, flows into the Caribbean Sea at Barranquilla. Every few years, the river floods and greatly impacts the residents of these fishing villages. The rise though is slow, as is the retreat. This gives people enough time to raise their belongings, and even their floorboards, in their homes, to prevent water from coming into the home. Quality education is also an issue. While many children do make it to the university level, government corruption has misrepresented attendance and made it difficult for qualified teachers to be placed in the remote schools.
Fishermen spend their days on water or at home mending gear. They make trips to the market in Tasajeras, to sell their catch and gather supplies, every 4-5 days. Many have outboard motors, but some rely on plastic sails to propel them across the waters. For the people who live in these villages, inconveniences caused by their remoteness is a small price to pay for a quieter, simpler life.
faces of ciénaga: pueblo viejo
Between Cienaga and Barranquilla there is a thin strip of land that separates a large lagoon (Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta) and the Caribbean Sea. It’s so narrow that I could see both bodies of water as I rode way down the highway between the two cities. On either side, there was barrio after barrio of small homes, mostly defined by the limits of the water and land. This is Pueblo Viejo. It is a town that is deeply connected to the water, where most men make their living by fishing, either in the lagoon or ocean. Most women are homemakers, but others take the 45-minute bus ride into Santa Marta to work at a hotel or restaurant for the tourist industry there. The people here are no doubt poor, and they are strong. I was able to visit several different neighborhoods within the town and was an unexpected – and welcome – guest in many homes. Since I was traveling with Medical Ministry International during their eye project in Ciénaga, my local guide and I would stop and ask the first person we saw if there were people in the neighborhood with eye issues. Inevitably doors opened. We met people who did not know we were in town, who had already been to the clinic or had come last year, or who just wanted to meet us and tell us their story.
The first barrio I visited was that of San Vicente, which was established in 2004 as a refuge for people who had been displaced from their homes from the violence that ravaged parts of the country in the early 2000’s. Most of the homes in this neighborhood were made of wood, and there were probably not any walls that did not let light through them. As I walked down a dirt road into the barrio, I couldn’t help but notice how brightly painted some of the homes, something that I would later note in every neighborhood I visited. One house was even wrapped completely in wrapping paper. It was what I took as an expression of pride in their homes, manifested in brightly painted walls, lace curtains, or ornate paper decorations. The colors and decor extended to the home interiors but found their limits there. Behind the homes, backyards with walkways that connected homes from different streets, revealed stagnant water, piecemeal walls, barren dirt, and discarded trash.
Garbage, particularly plastic, is a huge problem in this part of Colombia. It accumulates along the highways and shorelines. There were some barrios, such as Palmira, that looked to be choking by all the surrounding trash. There are actually trash trucks that come through each barrio regularly, but only the small amount of trash that is produced inside the home is discarded using these services.
Adonai is a barrio across the highway from San Vicente. The streets are wider and the homes more sound, being constructed mostly of cinder bocks. As we drove into the neighborhood, our motorcycles weaved between plastic barrels in the middle of the wide dirt streets. These were water tanks. Every day a truck drives through the barrios, delivering clean water. People bring barrels into the street to collect the water. The cost to fill a ~50 gallon barrel is 3000 pesos ($1.17). This provides enough water for a small family to use for about 3 days, and is used for just about everything: drinking, showering, and cooking.
The hub for Pueblo Viejo is the Tasajeras fish market. As we approached, we passed cantinas, churches, and restaurants as ciclotaxis and motorcycles buzzed by. Fishermen from all over the area congregate here to sell their catches. We walked through the indoor market, where men and a few women processed fish at lightning speed. Many of these men used to be fishermen but now buy some of the larger fish from fishermen to sell to the public at a premium. Outside this expansive, and mostly quiet, indoor market was an area alive with activity. Narrow wooden canoes slipped in and out of spaces only three feet wide to bring in their catches. Money exchanged hands quickly as women and children hold buckets up and whole fish are tossed in. One fisherman told me that the fish are not as big or as abundant as they used to be, mirroring conversations happening in many parts of the world as we hungrily over-develop, over-fish and over-pollute the planet’s coastal and marine areas.
As the afternoon came to a close, we entered a barrio called Cero Estrés, which translates to “Zero Stress.” The family I visited there did not know about the MMI project in Ciénaga but they told of how a similar group had helped a son of theirs years ago. Alfonso, now a strong 27 year old father of two, spent two months in the US as an 8 year old. He had heart surgery there, at a time when communication between where he was and where his family remained, was impossible. His concerned, pregnant, and courageous mother had taken him in to see the doctors at the clinic while her husband was out fishing. She did what she had to do. She let her son get on a plane with strangers who might be able to help them. And they did. There’s no doubt that similar stories have played out with less than happy endings. But it was good to be reminded that lasting differences come about when the generosity of those who can help meets the bravery of those who need it.
sights on ciénaga
Last year as I was traveling along the Caribbean coast of Colombia, en route to Santa Marta from Cartagena, I passed through an area that struck me by its level of poverty. On either side of the highway stood communities of shacks made of corrugated metal, cardboard or other materials that I’m sure were discarded by others. A few miles later we passed through the congested town of Ciénaga, packed with vendors, motorcycles, and bicycles with carts behind (ciclotaxis) carrying people here and there. It was a place that I remembered well after traveling around Colombia, even though I only experienced it through a bus window.
I have known about the medical projects in Colombia run by Medical Ministry International for several years. Dear friends of mine have been traveling with this group to Colombia for decades and going with them has been on my wish list for as long as they’ve been telling me about it. For two weeks this January, I was finally able to join them. As we pulled into Ciénaga the first day, it felt distantly familiar. This time I was not driving beyond the poverty-stricken barrios and bustling commercial center that I had seen last year. I was going right into the heart of it.
We were a group of 70 – Americans, Colombians and Canadians. Many in the group were doctors, others were translators, still others came along to fill in wherever there was need. With the help of ~70 additional Colombians from a local church, a school compound was transformed into a clinic. At a nearby hospital, an operating room was modified to accommodate multiple patients simultaneously. Our focus was eye health. Even on this first day, we began seeing people in the clinic, screening their vision and scheduling surgeries for the next day.
Some came for reading glasses, others for better prescription glasses. Moms brought their kids for screening. Some came with diabetes and glaucoma; others with undiagnosed conditions. Many came with cataracts and pterygia, both of which are prevalent in the area due to the intensity of the sun coupled with its reflection on the water in this community whose livelihoods closely associated with the water. Children and a few adults came with strabismus (crossed eyes) and several arrived who were missing an eye completely. For them, the question, “How do I look?” carries much weight, since their appearance causes ridicule and unacceptance and can prevent employment or the prospect of marriage, in addition to making them not look as they might desire.
Every morning when we arrived at the school, a line stretched down the street, people expectantly and patiently waiting. In my daily life I have not given much thought to eye issues, so I was surprised a the sheer number of people who came, some having traveled great distances, to seek help in this area. By the time we closed down the clinic and operating room, after ten days of being open, over 5700 people had been served.
I had come with the group to serve as the photographer. While others spent hours each day in one room, testing long- or short-range vision, fitting glasses, or performing surgeries, I flowed in and out of each room, witnessing special moments that occurred at each station. I met the people who waited in line outside, heard their stories, and visited some of their homes.
As I saw more of this area that last year I had passed by, the people of Ciénaga inched their way into my heart. Most do not have material possessions or even what many would consider basic comforts. But the people I met, young and old, are brave and generous with what they do have. They stood many hours in line, waiting and not necessarily knowing what to expect. Those that came to the hospital for surgery faced lying on an operating table, awake, as people operated on their eye, speaking a language they did not understand. Every day, as people left the clinic and hospital, they hugged those that had helped them, gave gifts (usually jewelry they were wearing or something they’d made) as tokens of appreciation, and lifted up praises to God – – whether their condition was fixed or not. In their vulnerability there was strength, and in their faith, hope.
For the next few blog posts, I will be highlighting aspects of my time in Ciénaga, the people who came for help from the medical team, and the communities in the area.
cartagenian cocktail
A recipe recommended for all who enjoy travel, culture, and ocean breezes. Drink up!
Muddle a variety of incredible food (any combination of fresh ceviche and fruit, street food, excellent mojitos, artisan ice cream, and world class coffee works well) in a shaker.
Pour in 2 oz. history (picture a walled fortress, quaint narrow streets, hidden courtyards, rehabilitated and dilapidated buildings…what stories, triumphant, festive and horrific these streets could tell).
Add 1 oz. art: equal parts historic, contemporary, and street varieties.
When in season, add a splash of intellectual inspiration with a local festival, such as last weekend’s Hay Festival.
Turn on some salsa music and shake well to blend the eclectic flavors.
Prepare a glass by rimming it with dancing well into the night. Add a few cubes of ice (you’ll want them in this steamy Caribbean climate).
Strain the mixture into the glass and garnish with the unexpected, which is sure to greet you at any given moment.
Unplug, find an outdoor street-side table, and sip slowly to enjoy this enchanting concoction to it’s fullest.
¡Salud!